Up and Coming

It's not unusual to find funky silhouettes from Nicholas Ghesquiere or Yohji Yamamoto. Only when these new shapes and bolder structures are seen translated by less adventurous designers does it become apparent we are witnessing the birth of a trend.

Balenciaga's unforgettable Spring 08 campaign started it all. The collection featured armor-like styles that forecasted an antithesis to Herve Leger and other body-hugger trend aficionados ruling the runways at the time. Ghesquiere's silhouette was created by the structure, the stiffness of the garment itself and not the other way around. Instead of showcasing what our mama's gave us, Balenciaga opted to encase it in a cocoon of exclusive print and experimental design.

In Spring 09, this type of forward-thinking takes form as a hoop skirt. Designers have always found success with styles that cinch the waist, and this season are taking the concept a step further, using materials that create a definitive shape rather than adding pleats, darts, or fabrics that simply float away. Yet, they are doing it in a more accessible, consumer-friendly way than Balenciaga did last season. Luella Bartley beckon's late 50's/early 60's color palate and layering traditions to make the statement, while Balmain simplified their version using black-on-black to complement their signature touch of rhinestone beading at the waist.

It's nice to see new silhouettes take shape in the fashion world. We've suffered through enough oversized smocks to warrant a need for spandex dresses and these extremes--though highly inventive--have never fully kept up with the changing nature of the feminine silhouette the way a hoop skirt can. Perhaps because of its unwavering structure, it never strays from what is most desired across the board: curves, a tiny waist, proportional shoulder width.


We always look back at fashions of the past with a hint of admiration, and thanks to the hoop skirt we're coming full circle. Once you eliminate the controversy of corsets, theres no doubt it's amazing what a little wiring can do.

for more photos and info: http://www.style.com/stylefile/2009/01/hooping-it-up-for-spring/